Table No. 1
ATTENTION: Before starting the construction of the model, read carefully the general instructions inside the plans cover.
1) Preparation of the stand for the assembly of the structure: fix on a board 15 mm thick two 4 mm strips, at a distance of 5 mm from each other, so as to fit in the complete keel in a straight and upright position. Glue the parts 21-22-23 forming the keel and strengthen the connections with the parts 24, fit the keel in the strips on the stand, glue on it the small squares 25 making them stick to the keel sides. Make sure the keel is in the right position to receive all the other elements (fig. 1).
2) Fit the frames 1...20 on the keel, without glueing them, the spars 26 and the cross-beam 27 placed under the spars, between the frames 10 and 11; during the dry-assembly, make sure that none of the parts forces in the respective grooves: it is advisable to have a slight play to allow a right alignment of the frames. Check the right position in height of the frames leaning a strip in their middle, where the deck will be assembled; the strip must assume a regular bending, slightly raised at its ends. Eventual corrections on any frame which should be too high or too low can be done adjusting the bottom of the groove in the first case, or glueing some small pieces of strip 0,5 mm till the right height is reached. When you are sure that the frames form a right angle of 90 degrees with the keel and that looking at the structure from various angles all the lines are regular disassemble completely and start again the assembly glueing all the parts considered so far, checking again before the glue has set that everything is all right (fig. 2). Glue the fore sector 28 of the deck, then the central part 29 - in 2 pieces - at last the aft sector 30 making them stick to the frames bending and fixing them with pins in correspondence of the grooves. " Here too, considering the big quantity of grooves deck/frames, it is necessary to have a certain play avoiding any forcing which could change the natural position of the frames. Glue under the deck 4 pieces of thin card in correspondence of the connections of the central part with the ends 28 and 30. Draw a line along the centre-line of the deck, then, starting from the mar­king and going on towards the outside, glue the planking 31 consisting in pieces of strip abt. 70 mm long, glued staggered. Their edges must be blackened with a pen­cil so as to show up the connection line of the boards. BE CAREFUL: the deck is not sheathed completely, only the surfaces going from the 2nd to the 6th frame and from the 12th to the end of the stern. Glue the sectors 32 and 33 placed at the keel sides, against the frame 1 and under the deck. Glue the beams 34 on the respective frames; when the glue is dry, insert the templates 35 and 36 under the beams and in the middle of the deck, prepare the stanchions 37, adjust them in height and glue them in position, remove the two templates: the beams shall have assumed the same bending as the deck (fig. 3-4).
3) Glue the false deck 38 in the grooves on the frames 19 and 20; under the false deck glue the sectors 39, then the surface under the deck 30, at last the strips. 41 connecting the elements 38 and 40. Glue in the middle, between the sectors 39, the detail 42 delimiting the opening for the rudder, fit at the sides and glue the port-holes 43. Glue the false frames 44 in front of the frame 20 (fig. 5). Sheathe with the strips 45 the lower curved part consisting in the sectors 39 and fix them against the protruding part of the port-holes, leave a 3 mm slot between the lowest sheathing strip and the frame 20, so as to fit in the end of the strips of the plan­king. Adjust the protruding part of the port-holes taking it at the edge of the sheathing, glue the surface 46 on the deck 30 (fig. 6). Adjust the fore frames and the relative supports 32 and 33, removing the fore edge of the frames without touching the original profile corresponding to the back edge; repeat the same work on the aft frames: now it is the back edge that must be removed, taking care that the low part of the frames must be strongly tapered, because in this part of the hull the connection lines with the keel are much refined, while under the transom the planking assumes a very narrow bending. Check the correct line of the planking laying a strip on the hull in different positions. Glue in the special grooves on the frames the metal squares 47-48-49 forming the openings for the gun-ports; with this procedure, you will have all the openings in the right size, position and alignment. The squares 48, in the curved part of the hull, have the fore edge inclined and the inside connection for the half-barrels or false guns, while the squares 49 are straight and completely open, as on the deck complete guns are mounted.
4) Mount the guns 50 without the barrel and glue the gun carriages on the deck in correspondence of the port-holes, where it is covered by the planking, that is bet­ween the frames 2. . . 6 and 12. ..20 (fig. 8). Glue the half-deck 51 on the beams, sheathe with the planking 52, from the stern to little beyond the frame 17, mount the beams 53, supported by the stanchions 55, using the template 54. Glue the deck 56 of the fore castle and adjust (fig. 9-10).

Table No. 2
5) Glue the element 57 under the half-deck 51 and against the frame 20 and the stanchions 58 in the grooves on the parts 46 and 57 (fig. 1). Cut out the strip of veneer 60 and the windows 61 and glue them behind the metal wall 59 after having removed the gilding where they have to be glued (fig. 2). Two walls must be pre­pared: one of them is to be adjusted in height so that, laying it on the half-deck and against the frame 17, to which it has to be glued, the upper edge is at the same level as the beam; the other wall shall be used afterwards for the transom. Prepare and glue in position the rudder set consisting in the wheels 62, the stands 63, the roller 64 (2 gun-wheels 4 mm) and the axle 65 made from a piece of brass dowel diam. 1,5 mm. Make two 3 mm holes on the half-deck, at the sides of the roller 64, wind 4 turns of rope around the roller and glue the ends in the holes (fig. 3-4).
6) Glue the deck 66 on the quarter-deck, the surface 67 on the half-deck, the stanchions 68 and the block 69, that has to be adjusted on the sides according to the natural lines of the frames; the upper and lower sides must be adjusted following the deck's bending, while the back side must have the same bending as the stern balconies (fig. 4—5).
7) The planking consists in 2 layers of strips: the first one of soft wood 5 mm thick, the second one made of strips of various sorts of precious wood, in different widths and thicknesses, therefore a careful choice is necessary, referring to the list of material, before the strips are applied. Owing to the big sizes of the model, the application of the strips can involve some difficulties, therefore a particular proce­dure with strips in two pieces has been adopted: the first strip 550 mm long is glued starting from the prow and is adjusted so that it ends between a frame and the other, then a piece of strip is glued, aligned with the first one, going as far as the stern. A piece of strip 30 mm long is glued inside the connection and fixed. The following strip must start from the stern and be completed as described above, so that the connections are staggered (fig., 6). As far as the second planking is con cerned, even more so the sheathing must be made of broken and alternated strips about 20 cm long, as it is unthinkable that in the reality it could be done otherwise. Before being applied, the strips must be put in soak for about half an hour to make them more flexible, they are then mounted one at a time alternatively on one side and on the other of the structure, so as to cause no deformation of the hull due to the tension of the strips as they get dry. Besides being glued on to the frames, the strips must also be glued to each other and fastened with little nails only partially driven in, so as to take them off when the sheathing is over. Before glueing a strip check that, leaning it on the frames, it has a regular bending: it may happen that a frame is too narrow or too large. In the first case correct inserting under the planking some pieces of strip, in the opposite case retouch the frame. FIRST PLAN-KING: Glue the first strip 71 in touch with the upper side of the port-holes 49, the strips on the deck, placed only at stem and at stern: care must be taken that in the central part of the hull where there are no port-holes the strip continues with its normal bending. Glue the second strip in touch with the lower side of the same port holes, fitting at the same time the port-holes 70 in the central sector of the hull, taking the position from the table A. Carry on the application of the single strips placed above and below the port-holes of the lower decks, therefore, cut out of the strips 71 pieces of suitable length and glue them vertically at the port-holes sides (fig. 6). Complete the planking highwards, letting the strips stick a couple of mm out of the frames and referring to the table A as far as the bulwark's profile is concerned. Close the whole free space between the strips already mounted and carry on the sheathing downwards, taking care that the strips must be gradually tapered towards the stem starting from the 5th or 6th frame. This operation is necessary because, starting from the middle of the hull to the stem, the frames get narrower and narrower though they must be sheathed with the same quantity of strips: therefore it is necessary to reduce their width (fig. 7). At stern too the strips must be tapered, though in a different way, because the part to be reduced is shorter but the tapering is stronger so that they can fit into the stern slot between the frame 20 and the sheathing 45, then the tapering diminish rapidly till the strips assume again their original width. It will be remarked that going down towards the lowest part of the planking some pieces of triangular strip must be inserted so as to complete the planking. Take care that the planking, in the lower stern sector, ends flat on the keel (fig. 8). Remove the nails and adjust the protruding part of the port-holes taking them at the edge of the planking, finish with rough-grained sand-paper rolled up around a piece of wood; in case of hollows, fill them up with putty and level (fig. 9).
8) SECOND PLANKING (fig. 8-9); Glue first the sheer-strake consisting in the strips 72 whose correct position and bending are indicated in the table A, go on highwards glueing the strips 73... 85. Of course these strips too must be slightly tapered towards the stern. Care must be taken particularly in the application of the strips 77-81-83-85 sheathing the surface of the upper part. As you see in the table A, the strips 82 and 84 assume a stronger bending highwards, consequently they must be adjusted with a tapering in the middle. Complete the lower part of the planking with the strips 86, which end at stern against the sheathing 45. A walnut strip 1.5x5 glued between the end of the planking and the sheathing 45 completes the fi­nishing. Sheathe completely with the strips 87 the whole part of the keel and of the ram remained uncovered; finish the upper edge of the planking following the ideal line connecting the ends of the frames (see illustrations in the tables A and B).
9) Remove the ends of the frames sticking out of the decks and adjust carefully, sheathe the whole inside of the bulwarks with the vertical strips 88 and mount the missing planking in the middle of the deck (fig. 10); glue the L-shaped strips 89 -4 in total - on the edges of the various decks, mount the planking 90 on all the other decks. Sheathe the inside of the bulwarks with the strips 91, glue the strin­ger 92 along the whole connection line decks/bulwarks, glue the strip 93 only on the central part of the bulwark between the fore castle and the half—deck. Open on the bulwark the spaces for the guns of the half-deck (6 on each side), taking the position from the table A (fig. 11). The handrails 94 - 4 on each side - are prepared separately as follows: lay a transparent plastic sheet on the table B where the handrails are drawn in natural size and lay on it the strips A, following the trace on the drawing, fix them in position with pins placed at the sides, glue the stanchions B, the fillings C, the strips D, at last the strip E. When the glue is dry, take the elements off the drawing, finish and glue them on the bulwark (fig. 12).

Table No. 3
10) Prepare separately the cabin formed by the block 95 sheathed with the indicated strips and complete it with the doors 96 and the windows 97, the reliefs of doors and windows must be painted white. Glue on the deck, beneath the fore-castle (fig.1). Take the sizes and the position of the various elements from the top view and assemble the group 98 consisting in the base of strips, in the windlass 99 and the chimneys 100 (fig. 2). Always taking as reference the top view, apply the central hatchway 101 consisting in the various strips specified on fig. 3, in the gratings 102 and in the rings 103. The gratings are assembled separately as follows: fit into each other, without glueing them, the milled strips, then when the grating is finished (40x40), dip it into some water with a few drops of white glue, let it dry perfectly and rub down making it slide on a sheet of fine-grained sandpaper. From the elements so obtained cut the various gratings following the requested sizes. Mount the group 104 of the half-deck with the same procedure (fig. 4). Prepare separately the 2 cages 105 and glue them on the quarter-deck adjusting the base to compensate the inclination of same. The real cage consists in the same strips used for the grating, glued so as to form two rectangles linked by the stanchions made from strip 1x1 and glued in the grooves (fig. 5). Mount the skylight glueing on the block 106 the strips 2x3 and the window-panels 107 and 108.
11) Sheathe the fore transom with the strips 109; glue the steps 110 against the wall and the inside of the planking, glue the doors 111. Glue vertically some pieces of strip 2x2 where the ram joins the planking, adjust so as to obtain a connection curve and glue the strips 112 so as to form the reinforcement hull/ram. Prepare the davits 113, glue them on the deck and in two slots on the bulwark stem. Glue 2 strips on the sides of the platform 114, cut 6 pieces of grating 115, adapt them and glue them in the side spaces of the platform, glue it on the hull, at the deck's edge and with the fore side leaning on the ram (fig. 7).
12) Glue the decorations 116 on the reinforcement 112 and make on the hull two holes 3 mm. Adapt and glue the head-boards 117 leaning in the middle against the platform, at stem, on the ram, and on the back against the hull and the davits. Adapt and glue the figure-head 118 on the ram.
13) The application of the transom requires a lot of patience as well as great care and precision. Each element must be adjusted and adapted before being definitively glued into position. First of all the walls 119-120-121-123-125-126 must be prepared as follows: glue behind the walls the strips 60 cutting them out of the veneer table in mahogany and the window-panes 61 made out of the plastic sheet. Bend the walls 123 and fold along the corners the walls 125 and 126, trying to avoid breakages; strengthen with epoxy glue the inside of the foldings (fig. 9). Glue all the parts following the numerical order as they are illustrated in the figures 10 and 11. The balustrades 132 are supplied in the same length, therefore the upper ones, being shorter, are slightly cut in the central part of connection.
14) Complete the inside of the transom glueing the sheathing 137 and the strip 2x2, prepare the stanchions 138 glued against the transom and glue the handrail 139 on them (fig. 12).
15) Sheathe the rudder 140 with the strips 141, bore and glue the rings 142, glue in the holes of 6 half-hinges 143 the pins 144, then glue them on the rudder and cut the protruding part. Round off the back edges of the keel, insert the remaining half-hinges on the pins, lean them against the keel, push the rudder so that the flanges of the half-hinges fit perfectly to the bending of the hull and glue. The rudder must be as near as possible to the hull (fig. 13).

Table No. 4
FOR ALL THE FOLLOWING OPERATIONS, REFER TO THE TOP VIEW.
15) Assemble the 6 ladders 145 using the steps 8 mm wide and the 3 ladders 146 with the steps 15 mm wide (fig. 1); cut them to the desired length and complete them glueing on the sides the various types of cast railings so as to form the 4 groups 147/148/149/150 as shown in fig. 2. Care must be taken that the ladders 150 form a couple, one with the opening on the right, the other on the left; for the small platforms use 2 pieces of strip 4 mm wide glued side by side. Glue the bells 152 on the railings 151 (fig. 3) and glue them on the hull together with the railings 153. Glue the ladders 146 in the hatchway on the main deck and the other groups previously assembled on the decks (fig. 4/5/6). Drill the edge of the bulwarks for the belaying-pins (dia. 1mm), then drill (1.5 mm) where the stanchions 154 are to be mounted, that is on the stem railing 153, on the bulwarks and at the sides of the hatchway. Glue the handrail 155 on the stanchions (fig. 4/5).
16) Prepare the belaying-pin racks and the bitts 156/157/158 following the sizes shown in fig. 12 and glue them on the decks (fig. 4/5). In order to prevent them from coming off the decks, it is advisable to make some holes 1.5 mm on the bitts as well as on the decks, introduce some pieces of brass dowel into the holes and glue in position. The side belaying-pin racks 159 must be made from strip 2x4, bored (1 mm), cut and glued against the bulwarks, taking length and assembly posi­tion from the top view (fig. 5/6); glue the mast-heel 160/161. Cut from the "L" strip the steps 162 and glue them on the hull sides, the steps placed at the port­holes' sides are shorter as shown on fig. 5. Glue on the davits 113 the parts made from strip 2x2 and the cleats 163, other 2 cleats are glued on the deck near the davits; glue on the bulwark the horn-shaped cleats 164 and the parts 165. Mount the guns 166, 25 mm long, of the half-deck and of the quarter-deck, glue the barrels on the guns 50 previously assembled and fix the barrels by means of the flanges 167. Glue the half-barrels 168 in the hole on the bottom of the port-holes, glue the buckets 169 and the grenade-holders 170 (fig. 5/6). Glue the 4 windows 161 on the hull sides, towards the stern (table A).
17) Mount the keel, made of different pieces of strip, in the groove on the life-boats 172/173/174, adjust and complete as shown on fig. 8; glue the stands 175 on the hatchways of the deck and of the half-deck and tie the life-boats on them by means of the rings 176 (fig. 9); of course there are no seats on the life-boat 174 because the life-boat 173 is placed inside it. Sheathe the port-holes 177 with the strips 178, glue the false hinges 179 and drill (1 mm) (fig. 10). Make on the hull in correspondence of the guns openings, some 1.5 mm diameter holes with an inclination of 45° and glue the port-holes by means of the small pin sticking out of the false hinges. At last glue, for each port-hole, a piece of rope between the hole on the port-holes and a hole on the hull (fig. 5).
18) Glue on the base 180 the 4 stands 181, positioned in such a way that the hull is perfectly aligned, glue the plate 182 (fig. 11).
OPERATIONS TO BE CARRIED OUT WHEN THE MODEL IS COMPLETED. Tie the two anchors on the channels, tie the other 2 anchors hanging on the cat davits by means of the ropes 184 and the block with hook 185; tie one end of the rope 186 to the anchor ring and glue the other end in the holes on the hull (fig. 13). Cut and glue all the flags 187 (table A).